Ferdinand Berthoud unveiled the Chronomètre FB 3SPC, the first model of the new FB 3 collection which draws its stylistic, technical and aesthetic inspiration from a rare creation created by Ferdinand Berthoud in 1753: the No. 26 decimal watch.
Signed by Louis Berthoud, the nephew of the founder, this creation is the symbol of a revival in a post-revolutionary period during which marine chronometers, produced for naval use in the 18th century, paved the way to high quality watchmaking for civil applications. The Chronomètre FB 3SPC reflects this historical and horological transition.
Its new mechanical movement, Calibre FB-SPC, is based on a cylindrical balance-spring, a rare watchmaking speciality used in the No. 26 decimal watch. Calibre FB-SPC is the only one of its kind to satisfy the chronometric (precision timekeeping) criteria of the COSC: ISO 3159 certification made possible only by the precision adjustments performed by the Manufacture’s watchmakers.
In addition to the development of a new variable-inertia balance-spring, equipped with four fine adjustment screws and 12 load screws, many months of research, testing and fine-tuning were necessary to define the number of coils and the geometry of the terminal curve at the attachment points in order to optimise rate precision.
The three main escapement organs – the balance-wheel, pallet-lever and escape-wheel – take the spotlight on the dial side at 9 o’clock making it possible to admire the regular beating (21,600 vibrations per hour) of the cylindrical balance-spring throughout the three-day power reserve.
The new round case of the Chronomètre FB 3SPC is 42 mm in diameter, 9.43 mm thick and available in 18-carat white (ref. FB 3SPC.1) or rose gold (ref. FB 3SPC.2).
The white gold case is paired to pale yellow gold movement components and an eggshell-coloured dial in sandblasted silver-toned brass.
The rose gold version frames a black-varnished minutes track with black-rhodium treated visible movement components. Their facetted, skeletonised and open-tipped 18-carat gold hands are inspired by a 1785 Ferdinand Berthoud astronomical regulator belonging to the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud heritage collection in Fleurier.
A single line hugs the curves of the domed crystal and the slender polished bezel, while extending along the strap and the lugs screwed to the case.
The indication of time has been reduced to the essential: a peripheral inner bezel ring for the hours and minutes, and small seconds at 6 o’clock. At 2 o’clock, the power-reserve indicator is engraved in a sector graduated in 12-hour segments from “0” to “1”. The rest of the dial is open to showcase the movement’s components with their finishes including chamfered and polished bevels and matt surfaces created by fine sandblasting.
More than 100 hours are required to decorate the 230 components of the movement in order to achieve the high standards characterising the creations bearing the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud signature.
Production of the Chronomètre FB 3SPC is naturally limited by the capacities of the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud workshop in Fleurier to a maximum 25 of these timepieces per year. Price is CHF 140,000. ferdinandberthoud.ch
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